Makes about 25 small rolls

For the pastry:
225g plain flour
Pinch of salt
2 tsp English mustard powder
175g very cold butter
1 egg, beaten with a little water and salt

For the filling:
300g pork belly, skin removed, minced or finely chopped
300g pork shoulder, minced (this can often be bought ready minced if you don't have a good butcher)
200g smoked streaky bacon, rind removed, finely chopped
Zest of 1 lemon
Nutmeg, to grate
2 tbsp roughly chopped thyme leaves
8 sage leaves, roughly chopped

1. Sift the flour, salt and mustard powder into a mixing bowl, and grate in the butter. Stir them together with a knife, so the butter is well-coated with flour, and resembles a rough crumble mixture. Pour in enough ice-cold water to turn the mixture into a dough that comes away cleanly from the bowl – be cautious, it shouldn't be sticky – and bring together into a ball. Wrap in clingfilm and put in the fridge for half an hour.

2. Put the meats into a large bowl and mix well with your hands. Tip in the rest of the ingredients and combine, seasoning well with black pepper and a little salt (remember the bacon will be salty, so don't go overboard). Pre-heat the oven to 220C.

3. Roll out the pastry on a floured surface to about a thickness of about ? cm, and cut into 3 lengthways. Divide the meat into 3 sausages, as long as your pastry, and place one slightly off-centre on each strip.

4. Brush one edge of the pastry strip with beaten egg and then fold the other side over to enclose the sausagemeat. Press down to seal, and then go along the edge with the back of a fork if you like, to make a pattern. Brush with more eggwash, cut to the desired size, and prick each with a fork. Repeat with the rest of the pastry and meat.

5. Put the rolls on a baking tray, and bake for 25 minutes, or until golden. Cool on a rack, and serve warm.

Are sausage rolls the best party food ever, and what's the best meat to make them with; does anything rival the classic pork and herb? And has anyone ever found a decent commercially-made version?